The Temple Tiger Trail _Edition 01

Madhya Pradesh has always enthralled me with the diverse tourism that it offers. Jungles, Heritage, Culture, Palaces…you name it and MP offers it all. So when Team Speaking wheels started brainstorming about an unique experience to be offered in MP, we thought of combining the iconic Khajuraho temples along with Rides in the forests of Panna Tiger reserve with a decent mix of cycling.

With an idea or a concept comes the responsibility of planning of details and eventually execution. Thankfully, Rahul’s prior experience of visit to Panna helped. Khajuraho was visited by all of us separately at some point so we were more than happy to include that in the final itinerary.  Soon, the relevant contacts were established and me and Rahul were off to a Recee visit.  We have realized the importance of Recees now that we have been executing such diverse rides and this time was no exception.  Both of us were more than convinced about this ride and we were back in Pune even more upbeat and looking forward to the event.

As soon as we launched an official teaser of the ride, the seats were full. In fact, so many members of Speaking Wheels expressed interest that we had to book the entire resort at the location which turned out to be one of the best decisions of the event.

After much planning, the D Day arrived and 36 of us headed out to, what we have termed as our first edition of the TEMPLE TIGER TRAIL.

Nothing Compares to the simple pleasures of riding a bicycle!!

DAY 00:

Train travel from Mumbai to Satna:

Having 36 members of Speaking Wheels made life easier since there were no ‘Ice Breaking’ sessions involved. It was a group of known people so we eagerly awaited the fun that was to follow on the train journey. College memories came flooding back and singing sessions, card sessions, leg pulling and laughter probably disturbed all the other fellow passengers!!!

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

Every Ride is a tiny holiday!!!

DAY 01:

Pick up Transport awaited us at Satna Station in the early morning hours and we were en route to Camp Panna, Greetoe. We were on a tight schedule on day 01 as we had to reach Camp Panna and head out immediately post a light lunch to Khajuraho to get a glimpse of the temple complex in the fading sunlight. Our cycles were already dispatched a couple of days before we left for Panna and our transporter did a fabulous job of it.

• 

• 

• 

After a cool welcome drink, we assembled the cycles, had a basic but delicious lunch and everyone was right on schedule to head out for Khajuraho. We had been briefing everyone before the tour that this was a red flag schedule because of the time crunch but we were happy with everyone’s enthusiasm and energy. This set the perfect tone for the days to follow. As an organizer, if the participants show the right attitude and perfect spirit, half of the problems get solved before they even arise!!!

Soon we were cycling away towards Khajuraho in the afternoon sun, pedaling away furiously to make maximum time for a mesmerizing evening at Khajuraho.

Soon we reached the hotel at Khajuraho and immediately headed out to the temple complex after parking away our cycles and a quick check in to the hotel.

The evening turned out to be as expected. The sunset with the temple as the foreground was a memorable experience for all of us. The fantastic stone carvings, the sheer scale of the monuments, the texture of the surfaces and the well-maintained complex was definitely well appreciated. After clicking some lovely pictures, we headed out of the complex since the temple complex shuts at sundown only to open at the first light the next day. We had already booked the Hindi version of the light and sound show within the temple complex which was an hour later. So some of the participants went to shop at nearby souvenir shops, some needed some hot brews while a few headed out for a couple of cold ones!

Soon it was time for the Light and Sound show and unfortunately this did not live up to the expectations. Somehow none of us really enjoyed the entire show, but nevertheless it was yet another unique experience. Team Speaking Wheels had arranged the dinner in one of the most famous cafes in Khajuraho, the Raja Café and the gupshup went on till quite late after a tasty and elaborate spread extending into a post dinner coffee session!

You are one ride away from a good mood!!!

DAY 02:

Since we all were ready to view the temple complex, this time in the morning light, everyone was ready on the dot at the pre decided time. A quick walk to freshen us up from the hotel to the temple complex and we were the first 36 visitors inside the complex along with a fantastic guide, who gave us apt and relevant information of the place. The photographers just could not stop clicking pictures within the complex. Khajuraho has so much to offer that one tends to get lost in awe just looking at the sheer scale of the structures. Yes, the Kamasutra sculptures are pretty evident in the carvings but within the complex they absolutely lose their vulgarity. It comes across as mystic or even tantric with a lot of curiosity around it. It’s a feeling that one has to experience. As mentioned before, time always falls short in such places and we had to ensure that everyone was back at the hotel for the breakfast since we had to cycle further to yet another place of interest, the Raneh falls.

A short cycle ride from Khajuraho along narrow village roads got us to Raneh Falls gate. The ride after the gate was though the forested area. This was the first glimpse of the kind of rides that lay in the days to follow. Riding along a forested area where you can sense some eyes are watching you but you cannot watch is an experience in itself. You can ‘feel the jungle’.

The view at Raneh falls is a sight to behold. Nature at its best, there are some mind-boggling rock formations. It reminds one of the Grand Canyon, although in a much smaller scale. Its just rocky formations all around but these look majestic and manage to impress one and all. Clear blue skies, green waters of the nearby Ken River, the combination of different colored rocky terrains and a few eagles soaring in the sky…. Perfect setting for the shutterbugs to click away to their hearts content!!!

Post this we headed back to Greetoe via the small localities or as they call in that part of town, the Bastis. This gave us a glimpse into the village life in this part of the country. Even though it was past noon time, the sights along the way made us forget the sun and soon everyone had made it in time to Greetoe for lunch. Yet another Jungle cycle ride was planned for the evening so we gobbled up the yummy lunch, a few minutes power nap and everyone was back on their saddles.

We headed off to the nearby buffer zone to cycle in the panna forest reserve. This was a ride that we doubt that anyone would ever forget!! Dirt roads in the thick forest with the setting sun rays filtering through the tall trees… OOHLALA!!! It was a first-time experience for almost all of us…. An evening tea and coffee set up right in the middle of the buffer zone was the icing on the cake!!! The sun sets very early this time of the year and we had anticipated that we will have to ride back in the dark. So, instructions were followed to the T and everyone had carried their bicycle lights along with them. The ride back to the resort was also a good one since the temperature had dropped considerably and the traffic too. Finally, we were back in the resort where a hot soup was served by the staff at Greetoe.

We must say this, the courteousness and the welcome offered by Greetoe was unparalleled. Full marks for the terrific service by them. A bonfire was already burning and slowly the evening turned into a night full of fun, dancing and laughter around the campfire.

How to Find Happiness????

Get on bicycle and pedal away to happiness!!!

DAY 03:

The longest ride of the entire tour. A 40 km one way ride to a tribal village from the resort which encountered some tough climbs. Obviously, we had to start early so that we could reach well before the sun could start troubling us. A long regroup at the top most point of the ghat brought back the much needed relief to the non-regular cyclists . Soon we reached the tribal village passing along Panna town. Again, a healthy breakfast in the meadows offered a different setting for the morning. The energy levels were restored and we headed out to the stunning gorge nearby where the local tribals took us around for a jungle walk. They showed us the flora fauna, explained their culture, their history, their social and economic conditions and how things are changing for the better. We as a lifestyle cycling group, try to infuse activities like these in most of our tours to get a sneak peek into the diversity that these remote places have to offer.

The highlight of this day was the lunch organized by these tribals for us at the location. Simple local cuisine made on location, served in plates and bowls made of leaves, finger licking local flavors sitting at the gorge under the shade of the rocks with the vast jungle valley for the view!!! This is best left to be experienced rather than someone telling you about it!!! With satisfied stomachs and hearts, we thanked the locals and made our way back to the resort. The 40 kms back with a full stomach in the late noon was a challenge for all!! However, everyone made back to the resort in good time where yet another campfire session awaited us. But this time it was a Karaoke session. A lot of the members could sing really well and the others lent a beautiful chorus!!

The cycles were handed over to the transport guy since this ended the cycling part of the Temple tiger trail after clocking a distance of slightly over than 200 kms in all.

We are rich because we have our bikes and that’s enough!!!!

DAY 04:

THE TIGER part of the event!!

We had planned 2 sessions of safaris in the Panna jungle. The gypsy pickups were right on time before the sun had even begun to make its presence felt. We were inside the Jungle gate at sunrise…. I have been to a couple of jungle safaris prior to this visit, but I must say, this is one of the most diverse jungles I have seen.

Grasslands, Bamboo vegetation, thick forests, Tall trees, water holes…. you name it and Panna will offer it to you. Winter mornings, smells of the vegetations, calls of the animals takes an individual to a different world all together. Of course, all eyes were open for a tiger sighting but the entire morning went ‘dry’ without the Striped one making an appearance. Nevertheless, we all enjoyed the other sights like numerous spotted deer, Sambar, Vultures, eagles etc.

Since the morning Safari went without any tiger sighting, we were hopeful during the evening safari and boy oh boy!! We weren’t disappointed. Not only did we get to see a tiger but most of us got to see 2!! For a long time, not just a fleeting glance, mind you people, but in its entire glory for quite some time.  

Till you see a tiger on a safari, in the wild, you are slightly okay if you do not sight one. You blame it on luck, say it is a natural habitat, etc but the minute you see one, the whole world in the safari goes topsy turvy!!! You just want to see the magnificent beast. The glory of this animal has to been seen to feel the aura around it. Although both the tigers that we sighted were cubs, the size was intimidating. The not so good part about the tiger sighting is the way people behave once a tiger is sighted. Everyone, including myself is to blame. The frenzy to get a best view of the elusive beast is not what you want to see. There is shouting, there is climbing on the jeeps, there is chaos!!! Probably the tigers are by now used to this mad chaos but I sincerely hope that they do not charge sometime in a fit of irritation and anger.

Satisfaction, Happiness, Excitement was the mood when all of met back at the resort. High fives, photo sharing, stories, excited voices were heard all around the resort. So much so that the tiredness of 3 days of cycling and a morning safari just vanished in a jiffy.

The mood was so upbeat back at the resort that the scrumptious Bundeli special dinner was devoured within no time!!!

Everyone truly slept with sweet dreams!!

Happiness is a journey and not a destination!!!

DAY 05:

A relaxed morning ensured that everyone had a good rest. The breakfast was set up by the banks of the Ken River right on which Greetoe is situated. Post the breakfast, it was an official wrap up and we headed back to our homes after an excellent and successful TEMPLE TIGER TRAIL, with tons of good memories!!

Team Speaking Wheels would like to thank Mr.Abhinav Pandey, Greetoe resorts, Panna for their superb hospitality and wonderful service.

Memories of the happy times spent together with a bunch of 36 likeminded people still linger in everyone’s minds.

 When we started out with the concept of this ride, we weren’t really sure how successful this event would be since the first edition is always a dicey one. But everything just fell into place and it was more than what we had imagined it to be. We, at Speaking Wheels ensure that not only most of the expectations are met but there is enough clarity on what to expect!!!

We hope that this becomes one of our signature rides with a perfect combination of cycling through the by lanes of the panna region ticking off the trail which starts at the temple complex and ends on a tiger safari!!As the teaser of this ride says, let’s go beyond the ordinary, lets pedal to happiness!!!!

*photo courtesy: all participants!!